Pullover with Cowl Neck and Pleat

Size: US 8–10, UK 12–14.

300 g gradient yarn (35% mohair, 65% acrylic, 440 m/100 g), straight needles size 4 mm (US 6, UK 8), circular needles size 3.5 mm (US 4, UK 10) and 4.5 mm (US 7, UK 7) for the collar.

Work following the chart. 

Repeat rows 1–2 throughout.

Reverse stockinette stitch: Right Side Rows – purl stitches, Wrong Side Rows – knit stitches.

Gauge: 23 stitches x 28 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

Cast on 115 stitches (113 stitches + 2 edge stitches) and work in the main pattern. 

At 17 cm height, increase 1 stitch on each side about every 3.5 cm, 12 times in total. 

At 55 cm height, bind off the center 19 stitches for the neckline and finish both sides separately. 

For shaping the neckline, bind off at the inner edge in every 2nd row 1 time 5 stitches, 1 time 4 stitches, and 1 time 1 stitch. At 58 cm height, bind off the remaining shoulder stitches in pattern. 

Work the other side of the neckline symmetrically.

Cast on 140 stitches (138 stitches + 2 edge stitches) and work as follows: 57 stitches in the main pattern, 26 stitches in reverse stockinette stitch (pleat), 57 stitches in the main pattern. 

At 17 cm height, work the increases as for the back.

At 32 cm height, begin decreasing the pleat by knitting 2 stitches together at the beginning and end of the pleat in every row, until only 3 stitches remain.

At 38 cm height, bind off the center 11 stitches for the neckline and finish both sides separately.

For shaping, bind off at the inner edge in every 2nd row 1 time 5 stitches, 2 times 3 stitches, 1 time 2 stitches, and 2 times 1 stitch. Then continue straight.

At 58 cm height, bind off the remaining shoulder stitches in pattern.

Work the other side symmetrically.

Cast on 103 stitches (101 stitches + 2 edge stitches) and work 6 cm in the main pattern, then bind off all stitches in pattern.

Sew the shoulder seams.

For the collar, with circular needles size 3.5 mm, pick up evenly 140 stitches and work 5 cm in the main pattern in the round. Сhange to needles size 4.5 mm and work for 5 cm. 

Then increase 1 stitch after every 10 stitches and work for 5 cm.

Repeat this increase once more and work another 5 cm.

Bind off all stitches in pattern.

Sew the side seams and sleeve seams. Set in the sleeves.