Materials:
Yarn: 700 g (100% wool, yardage = 300 m/100 g); 1 pair quick knit needles and one circular needle, both size 2.5 mm (US 1.5).
Rib Pattern: alt K1, P1.
Reverse stocking stitch (Rev St st): work RS rows p and WS rows k.
Textured Diamonds Pattern:
Work according to chart. Only RS rows are shown.
On WS rows, work all sts as they appear.
Work rows 1-34 once, then repeat rows 3-34 throughout.
Brioche Rib:
Row 1: alt K1, P1;
Row 2: work K kwise, slip P with yo tog;
Row 3: K1 with yo tog, slip P with yo tog;
Rep rows 2 and 3.
Gauge: 26 sts and 32.5 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
Back:
Cast on 130 sts and work in Textured Diamonds Pattern as foll: selv st, 10 sts in Rev St st, 35-st patt rep 3 times, 3 sts after patt rep, 10 sts in Rev St st, selv st.
For waist shaping, after 28 rows from beg, at both ends dec 1 st 9 times on every 6th row, work 20 rows even, then at both ends inc 1 st 11 times on every 4th row = 134 sts.
Armhole Shaping: When piece measures 43 cm from beg, bind off 6 sts once at each end, then 3 sts once and 1 st twice on every 2nd row = 112 sts.
For slants, after 60 cm from beg, bind off at each end 3 sts twice and rem 100 sts once on every 2nd row.
Work as given for back, but for neckline, after 58 cm from beg, bind off center 32 sts and complete both sides separately.
For rounding at inside edge on every 2nd row bind off 3 sts twice, 2 sts twice and 1 st once.
For slants, after 60 cm from beg, bind off at outside edge 3 sts twice and rem 23 sts once on every 2nd row.
Sleeve:
Cast on 50 sts and work as foll: selv st, 5 sts in Rev St st, 38 sts in Textured Diamonds Pattern, 5 sts in Rev St st, selv st.
Sleeve Shaping: After 20 rows from beg, at both ends inc 1 stitch every 4th row 12 times and 1 stitch of Rev St st every 6th row 15 times = 104 sts.
Cap Shaping: When piece measures 42 cm from beg, at each end bind off 6 sts, and 3 sts once, 2 sts once, 1 st twice on every 2nd row and 1 st 19 times on every 4th row.
For shoulder epaulette, work 14 cm more on rem 40 sts as they appear and bind off sts.
Finishing:
Close shoulder epaulette seams.
For neckband, using circular needle, pick up 200 sts from RS evenly around neck edge and work 1 rnd K, 1 rnd P, 1 rnd K. Dec each 5th st = 160 sts. Then work 1 cm in Rib Pattern and bind off sts as they appear.
Sew side and sleeve seams.
For collar (30 x 100 cm): Cast on 160 sts and work 30 cm in Brioche Rib. Bind off sts.